Growing Dahlia FAQs

Helping your dahlias thrive, one question at a time.

Many gardeners find that newly planted tubers fail to sprout or rot before growing. In most cases, the issue is related to soil temperature, moisture, or drainage.

  • Soil Temperature: Wait until the soil reaches about 70°F before planting.
  • Drainage: Dahlias require loose, well-drained soil.
  • Watering: Do not water immediately after planting unless the soil is extremely dry. Natural spring rainfall is usually sufficient.
  • After Sprouting: Begin regular watering once plants reach 4–6 inches tall.
  • Starting Indoors: Tubers can be started in pots after the last frost. Water lightly, keep in a dark location for a few days, then gradually introduce filtered sunlight before transplanting outdoors.
  • Tip: Poor-quality tubers may occasionally rot even when planted correctly, so always start with healthy stock.

Generally, no. In most areas of Georgia the ground rarely freezes deeply enough to require digging your tubers each fall.

  • Cut stalks back after frost.
  • Cover tubers with 4–6 inches of pine straw or mulch.
  • Place aluminum foil over the cut stalk and secure with a rubber band to prevent water from entering the crown.
  • Divide tubers every 2–3 years to maintain vigorous plants and abundant blooms.
  • Sunlight: 6+ hours daily, with 10–12 hours being ideal.
  • Soil pH: Aim for 6.2–6.8 (6.5 preferred).
  • Drainage: Dig planting beds 12–18 inches deep.
  • Organic Matter: Mix in compost, leaf mold, Black Kow®, or other organic humus.
  • Georgia Clay: Improve with organic matter or replace with quality garden soil when possible.
  • Raised Beds: Raised beds 10–12 inches high provide excellent drainage.

Plant tubers after the last frost, around the same time you plant tomatoes, when soil temperatures reach approximately 70°F.

  • Dig a hole 3–6 inches deep.
  • Place the tuber with the eye facing upward.
  • Install a 5–7 foot stake at planting time.
  • Space plants 18–24 inches apart.
  • Leave 24–36 inches between rows.
  • Do not water immediately unless soil is very dry.
  • At Planting: Apply Osmocote 14-14-14 around each plant.
  • Mid-Season: Switch to Miracle-Gro Rose Food or Tomato Food around August 1.
  • September: Reduce high-nitrogen fertilizers to encourage healthy tuber development.
  • Long-Term Soil Care: Consider Calcium Nitrate (15.5-0-0) or Urea (46-0-0) after several years in the same location.
  • Blooming Season: Potassium Nitrate foliar feeding every couple of weeks helps produce stronger stems.

Dahlias prefer consistent moisture but do not like soggy soil. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist while allowing excess water to drain away.

  • After Planting: Avoid watering newly planted tubers unless the soil is extremely dry. Too much moisture before roots develop can cause tubers to rot.
  • After Sprouting: Water deeply once or twice per week depending on rainfall and temperatures.
  • Hot Weather: During Georgia summers, dahlias may require more frequent watering, especially when temperatures are consistently above 90°F.
  • Watering Method: Water at the base of the plant and avoid wetting foliage to reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
  • Tip: Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and keeps soil temperatures more consistent.

Tall, leafy plants with few flowers are usually caused by too much nitrogen, insufficient sunlight, or a lack of pruning.

  • Sunlight: Dahlias need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, with more being ideal.
  • Fertilizer: Excess nitrogen encourages leaf growth instead of flowers. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers once plants are established.
  • Pinching: Pinch the growing tip when plants reach 12–18 inches tall to encourage branching and more blooms.
  • Spacing: Crowded plants may compete for sunlight and airflow, reducing bloom production.
  • Patience: Many dahlias reach their peak production later in the season as plants mature.

Healthy plants are the best defense against pests and disease. Good airflow, proper watering, and regular observation are key.

  • Airflow: Space plants properly and remove excessive lower foliage to improve circulation.
  • Watering: Avoid overhead watering, which can encourage fungal issues.
  • Inspection: Check leaves regularly for signs of insects, spots, or damage.
  • Common Pests: Watch for aphids, spider mites, thrips, and earwigs.
  • Clean Up: Remove dead leaves and plant debris to reduce disease pressure.

The best time to cut dahlias is when the flowers are fully open and the petals feel firm but not soft or wilted.

  • Time of Day: Cut early in the morning or late in the evening when plants are well hydrated.
  • Stem Selection: Choose stems with strong, healthy growth and flowers that have opened fully.
  • Conditioning: Place freshly cut stems immediately into warm water.
  • Stem Length: Cut longer stems whenever possible to encourage continued growth and future blooms.
  • Harvest Often: Regular cutting encourages the plant to produce more flowers.

Yes. Removing spent blooms encourages dahlias to continue producing flowers throughout the growing season.

  • Remove Faded Flowers: Cut spent blooms back to the next set of healthy leaves or branching point.
  • Prevent Seed Formation: Removing old flowers allows the plant to focus energy on producing new blooms and healthy tubers.
  • Regular Maintenance: Check plants every few days during peak bloom season.
  • Tip: Deadheading also keeps plants looking healthier and more attractive.

Dahlia tubers can be divided to maintain plant health and create additional plants. In Georgia, many gardeners can leave tubers in the ground with proper protection, but dividing periodically is still beneficial.

  • Timing: Divide tubers after the growing season when plants are dormant.
  • Eyes: Each division must include at least one viable eye from the crown to produce a new plant.
  • Cleaning: Remove excess soil and allow cut surfaces to dry before storage if storing indoors.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a cool, dark location with good airflow if they are removed from the ground.
  • Labeling: Always label varieties when dividing and storing tubers to keep track of your collection.

Society Officers:

  • President: Bob Goehring
  • Judging Chair & Southern States Conference Leader: Lori Goehring
  • Show Chair: Siobhan Kinnelly
  • Treasurer: Cheri Felton
  • Secretary: Chris Gleason
  • Membership Director: Kathleen Hadfield
  • ADS Representative: Megan Decker
  • Social Media Manager: Siobhan Kinnelly


Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software